The following information comes from “Canadian Leak Detection”

Use the following steps to determine if your pool is leaking

1. Bring the pool water to normal level. Fill a 5-gallon bucket with pool water to about five inches from the top.
2. Place the bucket on the first or second step of the pool. Ensure the bucket is immersed in the pool at least 5 inches.
3. Mark the water level inside the bucket.
4. Shut off the pump and mark pool water level on the outside of the bucket.
5. Resume normal pool pump operation.
6. After 24 hours, compare the two water levels. If the pool water (outside the mark) goes down more than the bucket’s water level, there is probably a leak. If levels are the same, only evaporation has occurred.

In case of rain, repeat the bucket test. During a summer day, expect water loss from normal evaporation. Test is invalid after 24 hours.

Typical evaporation

A quarter inch of water loss per day is most likely evaporation. The evaporation rate in your area will depend on humidity, sunlight intensity, barometric pressure, wind and the level of activity in the pool or spa.

After the bucket test is completed, use the pool leak calculator to determine how many gallons you’re losing in a 24-hour period, an hour, and even per minute.

Maintaining the chemical balance of the water is probably the single most important part of keeping a healthy pool. Unbalanced pool water will wear down your equipment, solar blanket and pool cover.

To maintain proper water balance, you will need to test for the following:

• Total alkalinity / pH balance
• Calcium hardness
• Sanitizer

pH Balance

pH is a measure of how acidic a solution is.  It is measured on a scale from acidic (1)  to the basic or alkaline (14). The pH level of pool water varies widely from 6.8 to 8.4, but the water feels most comfortable against the skin in the 7.4 to 7.6 range. ( The human eye has a pH of 7.5 ).

Generally if the pH is less then 7 it is considered corrosive. Above 8 it is too alkaline and likely to cause scaling.

Salt systems don’t preclude the need to test pH so continue to test even if you have one of these systems in place.

You can test the level of pH by one of 2 methods using :

• a pH volt meter, or
• an organic mildly acidic dye such as phenol red.

The results of a pH meter are straightforward. They are a measure of voltage generated between two electrodes.

Analyzing phenol red strips is more difficult. The dye changes colour depending on whether the water is more or less acidic.  It turns orange and then yellow as the level of acidity goes up. The strip is then compared to a graduated scale that shows what pH level each colour represents. However it is possible to misread the colours depending on lighting. For the best results, you should make your comparison in bright natural light.

You should also be aware that at the extremes, the colours stop changing. So if the pH level of the pool water is lower than 6.8 it will register the same as a pH of 6.8.

Finally, chlorine can make the phenol red dye turn purple, so if the chemical balance of the pool is off, the pH test results may be impossible to read.

• Note: If the pH is too low, the sanitizer in your water will dissipate quickly.

Total Alkalinity (TA)

Total alkalinity (TA) measures the resistance of pH to change. Its a good indicator of how corrosive the water is. Getting the balance wrong can lead to increased deposits of scale.

You can test the TA with a titration of sulfuric acid and an acid-base indicator such as bromocresol green and methyl red. When the indicator is added to a water sample, the water normally turns green. As the sulfuric acid titrant is added, the pH level drops (becomes more acidic) and the water turns red.

Chlorine in the water can bleach out the methyl red, leaving only the bromocresol green and causing a false reading. In that case, the bromocresol green should turn blue and shift to yellow as the sulfuric acid is added.

Cyanuric acid in the water can also falsify the reading, making the water appear too alkaline.

Adjusting pH and TA

You can raise the level of your pH and the TA by adding a pH increaser (TA plus) such as sodium carbonate

Lower the levels with a pH decreaser (TA minus) such as sodium bisulfate.

• Note: If your TA level is  very high, you may need to use muriatic acid to lower it. Caution should be used as this chemical is very dangerous and can damage pool liners, metal and plaster.

Calcium Hardness

Water contains calcium. When calcium levels are low, water draws calcium from its environment leading to corrosion of metal surfaces and pitting of concrete walls. When calcium levels are high, the calcium precipitates out, leaving hard deposits of calcium carbonate or scaling. Either way, the effect can be extensive damage.

The proper amount of calcium varies from  175 to 400 ppm.

The test for calcium hardness begins by adding sodium hydroxide to a water sample. This counters the effect of magnesium in the water which can also make it hard. An organic dye is then added to turn the water red. EDTA is then added, binding with the calcium and turning the sample blue. The amount of EDTA added indicates the water’s hardness.

To decrease the level of calcium hardness, in many cases you only need to add water. However, if your water is very hard, you may need to consult a pool professional.

To increase the calcium hardness, add calcium chloride, following the instructions on the label carefully!

Sanitizer

Sanitizers kill bacteria. The most common are chlorine and bromine with chlorine being most widely used. Chlorine comes in granular, liquid or tablet forms.

Ideally sanitizers are used at 1 to 3 parts per million or milligrams per litre (mg/l).

Q&A

Q. How often should I test my water?
A. Unless you are correcting a water problem, once a week is a good practice.

 

Q. I think I’m losing water.

A. First put a mark on the side of the skimmer faceplate with pencil or tape. Monitor this mark for a 24-hour period. If water drops by more than an inch, shut the system down for a 12 hour period and monitor to see if water drops faster with the pump on or off. If water drops faster with the system on, the probability of an underground plumbing leak is good. If water drops at the same rate with the system on or off, the probability of a liner leak exists.
Note: High wind areas, non-use of a solar blanket and backwashing are all things to consider.

When it comes to swimming pools, algae can be a common problem that becomes a pool owner’s nightmare. In order to prevent or treat algae successfully, one must understand the different types and characteristics of algae to be treated.

Algae are microscopic aquatic plant-like organisms. They do not have the same structure as higher plants. There are no roots, stems or leaves. However, like other plants they require  nutrients to grow and utilize sunlight to carry out photosynthesis. In swimming pools, algae can be quite a nuisance; however, they are actually the most important photosynthesizing organisms on earth. They capture more of the sun’s energy and produce more oxygen than all other plants combined. In addition, many species of animals depend on algae as a food source.

Algae vary greatly in size and they grow in many different habitats. They can endure a wide range of temperature and have been found growing everywhere from hot springs to deep within our polar ice.

Several types of algae can be found in swimming pools:

Green Algae

Green algae is the most common with over 7,000 different species. Green algae are bright green due to the chlorophyll (the molecule that captures light energy to carry out photosynthesis) in their cells.  Green algae can be free-floating or surface-clinging and can be found in all types of pools. They are typically the easiest to treat, however, some species may be more difficult to manage than others.

Mustard Algae

Mustard algae have been described as ‘adapted green algae’. Mustard algae also contain chlorophyll, but the green colour is masked by the presence of beta-carotene. Carotenoids (such as beta-carotene) are found in many photosynthetic organisms. These compounds are responsible for colour (like the orange colour of carrots), which is why mustard algae are yellow rather than green. Carotenoids are anti-oxidants (or reducing agents). They protect against damage caused by oxidation. Mustard algae can use these compounds as a defence mechanism to help them survive in a chlorinated environment. As carotenoids protect against oxidation, chlorine (as an oxidizer) may have little effect on algae once this defence mechanism has been activated within the cells.

Black Algae

Black algae are aquatic photosynthetic bacteria called cyanobacteria. They are singlecelled, but grow in large colonies. They contain chlorophyll, but they also contain compounds called phycobilins, which mask the green colour of chlorophyll. There are two types of phycobilins: phycocyanin, a blue pigment, which gives the cyanobacteria their name, and phycoerythrin, a red pigment, which exists in red or pink algae (often found around sinks and drains). Cyanobacteria are very important organisms that assist in the growth of many types of plants. They are one of very few organisms that can convert inert atmospheric nitrogen into a form that plants can use such as ammonia or nitrate.

These bacteria can grow protected from the surrounding environment. This is due to the formation of a ‘sticky layer’ on the outside of the cell. The process of photosynthesis, carried out by the bacteria, depletes carbon dioxide in the surrounding water. The decrease in carbon dioxide concentration causes the precipitation of calcium carbonate in that area. As a result, calcium carbonate, along with any other sediment that may precipitate, becomes trapped within the sticky layer. The bacteria will then grow through and over the sediment continuing to photosynthesize and develop.

This process will continue over and over again forming more layers and making the black algae difficult to treat. Brushing is extremely important when treating black algae as the protective layer must be broken in order for the sanitizer or algaecide to come in contact with the cyanobacteria.

How Algaecides Work

Quaternary ammonium compounds (quats) are positively charged and are therefore attracted to the negative charge on the cell walls of algae. This, along with the their wetting agent properties, allows quats to enter the cell wall, causing it to break. The structure of the quat makes a difference when it comes to the effectiveness of the product. Quaternary ammonium compounds have a ‘chain’ of carbons on the molecule and these carbon chains can vary in length. Through research and testing, it has been determined that biocidal activity peaks at a carbon chain length of 14.

Polymeric quat compounds work in a similar manner to ammonium chloride quats. However, because they are much larger molecules, they usually work a little slower than ammonium chloride quats.

Copper is effective at killing algae because it disrupts enzymatic activity within the cell. If the enzymes do not function properly, the organism typically cannot survive.

Preventing Algae Growth

Ultimately, proper maintenance is the key to keeping algae growth in check. The most important consideration is the presence of sanitizer, or even better – sanitizer and algaecide. Establish a maintenance system that includes maintaining appropriate sanitizer levels, routine oxidation and application of a preventative algaecide. Remember, algae treatments will be much less effective if the pool is unable to maintain a sanitizer residual.

The physical aspect involved in pool care should also be kept in mind. Proper circulation and filtration, as well as routine cleaning and vacuuming of the pool surface are very important – particularly brushing (as mentioned previously). Once algae are exposed, the products applied for sanitization and algae prevention are able to do their job, allowing them to work more effectively.

Using products that are PMRA or EPA registered as algaecides and always following the product application directions will help ensure successful treatment and a more enjoyable pool experience for the homeowner.

There are very few pool problems that can’t be fixed if they are seen to early on and fortunately, a well maintained pool will see few problems arise over the years. There are also many new products available to help;  many of which can be retrofitted to or used in older pools.

Whether you are investing in a new pool or taking care of an older one, you will want to watch for these problems with water quality to keep the water clean and pure.

The quality of the water in your pool is critical to your enjoyment. Contamination, cloudiness, and chemicals are just a few of the things that can affect both how safe the water is and how it feels.

Some of the things you need to check for on a regular basis are:

• cloudiness
• chemical imbalances
• microbial contaminants and other impurities
• overall water levels

Cloudy Water

If you have cloudy water, check these 4 areas to find the source of the problem:

1. First, check the circulation. Make sure your returns point down and towards the opposite pool wall so that they really stir up the water and don’t just circulate it at the top level. This improves the skimming action.
2. Check the skimmer and strainer baskets and remove any debris.
3. Check your filter. You may need to clean it. If the pressure gauge is close to 10 lbs over the recommended pressure, your filter is probably dirty. If you use a sand filter, you may need to change the sand.
4. Check the water chemistry. A high pH can cause cloudy water. Perform a simple test and adjust the pH as necessary.

Water Levels

If you think you are losing water, the first thing you need to check is, if you are right!

Put a mark on the side of the skimmer faceplate with pencil or tape. Monitor this mark for a 24-hour period. If water drops by more than an inch, shut the system down for a 12 hour period and monitor to see if water drops faster with the pump on or off. If water drops faster with the system on, the probability of an underground plumbing leak is good. If water drops at the same rate with the system on or off, the probability of a liner leak exists.

Note: In high wind areas, non-use of a solar blanket and backwashing may also be affecting your water levels.

 

Solutions

Registered Sanitizers

Ultraviolet Technology

Not all microbes can be killed with chlorine. Fortunately we have strong proof that certain UV rays effectively prevent some of the more persistent parasites such as Cryptosporidium and Giardia from multiplying.

We are all familiar with the damage that UV rays can have on skin. All light is broken down into wavelengths and humans need to protect themselves against the UVA and UVB range. UVC light has a wavelength of 200-280 nanometres and is just as damaging to the DNA/RNA of many micro-organisms making it impossible for them to reproduce.

Exposing micro-organisms to UV light requires a one-pass treatment application.

UV light is also used to reduce trichchloramine, the component of chlorine that floats in the air above the pool,  causing repiratory distress in some people.

Ozone Treatments

Another supplement to chlorine and salt sanitizers may be familiar to you from its use in aquariums. Ozone can be injected into the water where it breaks down to form free radicals which then combine with metal salts and organic impurities to form oxides. In the case of parasites, these free radicals destroy their cell walls.